2015 Valentini Montepulciano d'Abruzzo

So often you read about "traditional" farming, or even in some wine profiles words like "ungrafted"; in one case, Edoardo Valentini went an extreme step further: he tore out the mass-producing, modern clone of Trebbiano and in its place planted the ancient version that yields only a tiny percentage of the quantity, but quality that can't be measured by numbers. Put simply, Valentini's quest for perfection has them firmly atop our wine pantheon.

Over his fifty years of crafting his own wines, Edoardo retained an aura of mystery as to his winemaking; truly what set the wines apart anyway was what happened in his vineyards, some 60 hectares' worth. In keeping with what was tradition prior to the dawn of mass-production, the canopies were trained high, allowing maximum ripeness to occur. We do know there were no modern techniques in the cellar - no stainless steel or Burgundy barrels - and the wines were traditionally only released when they were deemed ready. Edoardo often cut his output even further, selling off up to 95% of his wine every year when it didn't meet his incredibly high standards. 

The Montepulciano is said to macerate for about 25 days, the Cerasuolo receives only a small percentage of that duration, lending the most beautiful translucent cherry-red hue. Almost indescribably, it coats the palate and is simultaneously rich and snappy, the salty-spicy flavors perfectly complementing the bright red fruits. The Montepulciano Rosso takes on the darker side of fruits, both red and black. With time in bottle (usually held back for at least four years at the estate) this becomes one of the most wondrous reds, both unctuous and savory. 

"This is the first vintage of this wine to be released since we saw the 2006 edition. It's been way too long, I'd say. Slightly held back or restrained on first nose, the Valentini 2012 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo opens slowly and contemplatively to sensations of dark fruit, smoke, tobacco and cured meat. Despite the rather heavy and sun-drenched nature of that first wave of aromas, it's impossible to miss the enormous intensity and textural richness packed tightly underneath. That full-bodied power is a celebrated signature of this wine and is a consistent feature of past editions. Give the glass a few robust swirls and a second act is soon to follow. Those heavier dark fruit aromas magically lift to reveal an enormous color palette of camphor ash, saffron and wild licorice root (WA, 94 points)."