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Great fun to center this little parcel of Stéphane Bernaudeau’s 2020 ‘Les Coqueries,’ just the second release from this recently acquired Chenin parcel in Bonnezeaux.  That’s the last you’ll hear about place and varietal here as the wine, like each of Stéphane’s most compelling efforts, is little concerned with either.  Wine as aesthetic end-in-itself always seems the point with these. 

In ’20, ‘Les Coqueries’ ferries us directly into the heart of Stéphane’s winemaking vision.  Zesty, precise reduction tightens the nose and with time white tea-like details layer in their floral/earthy complexity.  It’s dry as a bone but the lemon oil, tangerine-y intensity conveys a real sense of generosity.  There's something almost hypnotic in the way the wine so aggressively centers its stylistic priorities and, for our part, how powerfully the wine holds our attention. 

It’s early days for this cuvée but tension and energy certainly seem to come easily.  As does the thickly reductive approach, which seems to find an especially willing partner in this little Bonnezeaux parcel. 

Cheers,   

Jason

 

 

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